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Chanel Couture Spring/Summer 2026 Felt Like a Breath of Fresh Air
- Qui Joacin
- 3 hours ago
- 4 min read
From Matthieu Blazy’s dreamy Chanel debut to Armani’s quiet couture reset, Paris Fashion Week felt lighter—and more human
Chanel Couture Gets a Fresh Start: Stars, Joy, and a New Era in Paris
If Paris Fashion Week couture had a collective mood shift, it happened the moment Chanel opened its Spring/Summer 2026 show. The front row alone felt like a movie premiere — Nicole Kidman, Dua Lipa, Penélope Cruz, A$AP Rocky, Gracie Abrams — but the real headline was what happened inside the Grand Palais.
This was Matthieu Blazy’s first couture collection for Chanel, and instead of going dark, serious, or aggressively “new,” he chose something unexpected: joy.
And honestly? It worked.
Chanel Couture Spring/Summer 2026: A Couture Set Straight Out of a Dream
Walking into the Grand Palais felt like stepping into a surreal fairytale garden. Candy-colored trees, oversized pink-and-red mushrooms, and soft lighting instantly erased the gray January Paris gloom outside.
Before a single model walked, Blazy set the tone with a playful animated film of woodland animals stitching garments in the Chanel ateliers — a Cinderella-meets-couture moment that made one thing clear: this collection wasn’t here to intimidate. It was here to delight.
That sense of wonder carried straight into the clothes.
Chanel Codes, Made Light and Airy
What stood out most about Chanel couture Spring/Summer 2026 was how weightless everything felt. Blazy took the house’s most recognizable elements — tweed suits, pearls, chain hems — and stripped away their heaviness.
Classic skirt suits appeared sheer and barely there, like whispers of tweed rather than armor. Chiffon floated. Embroidery fluttered. Feather-like textures moved as if the garments were breathing.
Birds became a quiet motif throughout the collection — a symbol of freedom, movement, and escape — reflected in flighty silhouettes and delicate detailing. Models didn’t stomp the runway; they glided.
Couture That Whispers Instead of Shouts
One of the smartest moves Blazy made was refusing to make the craftsmanship loud. Up close, the work was incredibly intricate — exactly what couture clients expect — but from afar, the clothes felt effortless.
There were trompe l’oeil moments (like jeans-and-tank looks recreated in organza) and romantic textures that felt slightly surreal, giving the collection a wink of humor. This wasn’t couture screaming for attention — it was couture confident enough to be quiet.
Making Couture Personal Again
Perhaps the most emotional detail? Blazy introduced the idea of personal choice. Models were able to incorporate private symbols or messages into their garments — love notes, signs, tiny personal marks.
It subtly shifted couture away from rigid “house uniform” energy and toward intimacy. These weren’t just dresses for display — they were garments meant to hold meaning.
Casting also reflected that openness. A mix of ages, backgrounds, and energies made the runway feel lived-in and human. Model Bhavitha Mandava returned after her viral Métiers d’Art moment and closed the show as a feathered couture bride — smiling, glowing, and clearly in on the magic.
The Soundtrack Said It All
The music told its own story: Disney sweetness blended with millennial nostalgia. Think Moby’s “Porcelain” mixed with “Wonderwall” and “Bitter Sweet Symphony.” By the finale, the audience felt emotionally pulled into the moment — not just watching, but participating.
Blazy didn’t try to overpower Chanel’s legacy. He simply made it feel alive again.
Armani Privé Enters a New Chapter
Across town, Armani Privé quietly marked a major transition. Silvana Armani presented her first couture collection as creative director following the death of her uncle, Giorgio Armani, in September.
After working beside him for over four decades, Silvana now becomes the only woman leading a couture house this season — and her debut felt respectful, restrained, and deeply intentional.
Softer Tailoring, Lighter Couture
Her approach stayed true to Armani DNA but softened it. The show opened with relaxed tailoring: sheer organza shirts, fluid trousers, and suits that moved easily instead of standing rigid.
Accessories were minimal — notably, hats were completely absent, a striking shift for a house long associated with Giorgio Armani’s signature headwear.
The palette stayed light and controlled, with celadon greens, blush tones, and gentle neutrals. Embellishment appeared sparingly — crystals and embroidery used with precision rather than excess.
A Quiet, Powerful Tribute
The most emotional moment came at the finale: a bridal gown designed by Giorgio Armani for his final Privé collection, shown publicly for the first time. It wasn’t flashy — just elegant, restrained, and deeply moving.
It felt like a goodbye and a continuation all at once.
Final Thoughts
Between Chanel’s joyful reinvention and Armani’s thoughtful reset, Paris couture this season felt refreshingly human. Less about spectacle for spectacle’s sake — more about emotion, wearability, and meaning.
If this is where couture is headed in 2026, I’m here for it.
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