The Truth About ‘Sustainable’ Cotton: Why Better Cotton Is Under Fire

An NGO report exposes serious environmental and human rights concerns linked to the world’s most popular sustainable cotton certification.

Brazil is the world's fourth-largest cotton producerImage: EVARISTO SA/AFP

When you hear the term ‘sustainable cotton,’ you probably imagine ethically grown, environmentally friendly fiber that helps make fashion more responsible. But what if one of the most widely used sustainable cotton certifications isn’t as green as it seems? That’s exactly what a new NGO report is claiming about the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the world’s largest sustainable cotton program.

According to BOF, an investigation published last year linked Better Cotton-certified farms in Brazil to alarming environmental and human rights abuses, including deforestation and land grabbing. While BCI has since attempted to address these concerns, the NGO behind the report argues that their efforts are falling dangerously short.

What’s Happening in Brazil?

Brazil is one of the world’s largest cotton producers, and many of its farms carry the Better Cotton label. However, industrial cotton farming in the region has been associated with aggressive land expansion, which has led to illegal deforestation and the displacement of Indigenous communities. The report highlights specific cases where farmers allegedly took over land without proper consent, clearing forests to make way for cotton production.

Despite these findings, BCI has continued certifying these farms, raising serious questions about the credibility of its sustainability claims. If deforestation and human rights abuses are happening under the Better Cotton banner, how sustainable is it really?

Why Does This Matter?

The fashion industry relies heavily on Better Cotton, with major brands like H&M, Adidas, and Levi’s sourcing materials under this certification. Consumers trust that when they buy Better Cotton products, they’re making an environmentally responsible choice. But if the certification process isn’t stringent enough, then brands—and their customers—could be unknowingly supporting harmful practices.

This controversy is a wake-up call for both the fashion industry and consumers. It highlights the need for more transparency and accountability in sustainable sourcing. If Better Cotton wants to live up to its name, it needs to enforce stricter environmental and ethical standards—otherwise, it risks becoming just another case of greenwashing.

What Needs to Change?

Sustainability advocates are calling for immediate reforms, including:

• Stronger verification processes to ensure certified farms truly meet sustainability standards.

• Greater transparency from BCI and the brands that use its cotton.

• Stricter consequences for farms that engage in harmful practices.

For now, this report serves as a reminder that not all ‘sustainable’ labels are created equal. As consumers, we need to ask more questions and push for real change in the industry.

What do you think—should fashion brands continue using Better Cotton, or is it time for a new standard?